When I posted about the knitting needle roll I made as a gift a few of you expressed interest in a tutorial. Ask and you shall receive!
I had to make another needle roll for the purpose of showing you step by step instructions for this tutorial and I since I already have my own I’ve decided to give this one away. Here’s what it looks like [*needles not included!*]:
If any of you are interested in this knitting needle roll, just leave me a comment below by Friday May 10th. I’ll ship worldwide. If there is more than one person interested I will draw a name at random and will announce the winner in this space by Saturday May 11th. Fair? Okay, now on to the tutorial.
- Outside fabric measuring 15” wide x 21” tall (we will call this “Piece A”)
- Lining fabric measuring 15” wide x 21” tall (“Piece B”)
- Pocket fabric measuring 15” wide x 10 ½” tall (“Piece C”)
- Pocket fabric measuring 15” wide x 8” tall (“Piece D”)
- Pocket fabric measuring 15” wide x 5 ½” tall (“Piece E”)
- Fusible fleece or interfacing of choice measuring 14 ½” wide x 20 ½” tall
- One metre of ribbon (or two pieces, 20” long each)
- Coordinating (or contrasting) thread, scissors or rotary cutter, mat, ruler, marking tool
Please note that for this needle roll I used the same print for Pieces A and E and a coordinating solid for all other pieces. You can mix and match prints and solids, as well as thread colour, as you wish but regardless of the combination you choose I don’t think you’ll need more than a metre of fabric in total for this project.
Also, because I used quilting cotton and I wanted my roll to have some heft to it I added the fusible fleece. If you use heavier fabric, such as home decor or canvas, you may not need the fusible fleece. The choice is yours.
Step 1 – If using fusible fleece, apply it to the wrong side of Piece B following manufacturer’s instructions. Note that in order to avoid unnecessary bulk at the seams I cut my fusible fleece a ½” smaller that Piece B.
Step 2 – On Piece C, fold ¼ inch along the width of the piece (the 15” side), towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold under again to enclose raw edges. Press and pin. Topstitch this hem in place. Press to set stitches. This will be the top of Piece C.
Repeat this procedure with Pieces D and E.
For a different finish you may choose to enclose the top hem in contrasting bias binding like I did here. The choice is yours!
Step 3 – Place hemmed Piece C on top of Piece B, right sides facing up and aligning the bottom edges.
Because there will be a 1/2″ seam allowance all around the needle roll, starting on the left edge of Piece C mark a vertical line parallel to this side edge and 1/2″ away from this edge. The line will run from the top hem of Piece C to the bottom edge.
Next, mark parallel lines 1″ apart starting from the first edge line all the way to the other side of the piece, ending with another line 1/2″ away form the right edge of the piece.
You will have two lines 1/2″ away from each edge. Between these edge lines you will have thirteen lines 1″ apart from each other.
Step 4 – Pin Piece C to Piece B. Starting on either side edge, sew along the second line from the edge (i.e. do not sew along either edge line – these will be caught as the seam allowance when we attach front to back) backtacking at the top hem to reinforce that seam.
Repeat along each one of the thirteen centre lines. Press to set stitches.
You will note that in effect you are creating the grooves/pockets into which you will insert your flat knitting needles.
You will also note that I used a walking foot, which I find were useful to keep all my layers fed smoothly.
Step 5 – With right sides facing up place Piece D over Piece C aligning the bottom edges.
Starting on the left edge of Piece D mark a line 2 1/2″ away from the the side edge, from the top hem of Piece D to the bottom edge. This line will effectively be right on top of the second line you sewed from the edge of Piece C.
Next, mark parallel lines 2″ apart from this first line all the way to the other side of the piece, ending 2 1/2″ from the right edge of the piece.
You will have marked six lines in total, 2″ apart from each other.
Pin Piece D to Piece C. Starting on either side edge, sew along the six lines you just marked on Piece D, backtacking at the top hem to reinforce. Press to set stitches.
You will note that in effect you are creating grooves/pockets a bit wider than the ones in Piece C. These will be a good size to house your DPN’s.
Step 6 – With right sides facing up place Piece E over Piece D aligning the bottom edges.
Starting on the left edge of Piece E mark a line 4 1/2″ away from the the side edge, from the top hem of Piece E to the bottom edge. This line will effectively be right on top of the second line you sewed from the edge of Piece D.
Next, mark two more parallel lines 4″ apart from this first line all the way to the other side of the piece, ending 2 1/2″ from the right edge of the piece.
You will have marked three lines in total.
Pin in Piece E to Piece D. Starting on either side, sew along the three lines you just marked on Piece E, backtacking at the top hem to reinforce that seam. Press to set stitches.
You will note that in effect you are creating grooves/pockets much wider than the ones in Pieces C and D . These will be a good size to house your circular needles.
Step 7 – Cut ribbon in half so that you end up with two pieces, each 50 cm (20″) in length. Pin the two pieces of ribbon to the left side of the roll, about 9″ from the bottom edge. You will be sandwiching the ribbon between two layers of fabric so make sure that, other than the spot you just pinned, it stays well away from the edges.
Step 8 – With right sides together, place Piece A over Pieces B, C, D and E. Pin the two layers all around the edges. With a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around all edges, leaving a 3″ opening at the top edge. When you sew over the ribbon, make sure to go over it a couple of times so that it remains securely in place.
Step 9 – Clip corners. Turn needle roll right side out. Using a point turner poke your corners to make sure they are nice and crisp but be careful not to poke through your stitches.
Step 10 – Fold under the opening you left at the top so that the entire top edge seam is aligned. Press it in place and pin. You can either close this opening shut by edge-stitching with your sewing machine or by slip-stitching by hand. I’m lazy so I decided to go the edgestitching route.
Step 11 – Give the entire needle roll a good press. Fold the top edge towards the inside, about 4″. Press to create a crease. Transfer your knitting needles from the mason jars/Tupperware containers/elastic bands you’ve been using as storage to your brand spanking new needle roll. Roll it up, tie the ribbon in place and take a moment to admire your work. While you’re at it, pat yourself in the back because you’re done. Cool? Cool!
I hope this tutorial is clear enough that you’ll be able to make your own needle roll but if you get stuck at any point, or have any questions, feel free to contact me and I will attempt to clarify. If you make a roll of your own following this tutorial, please let me know as I would love to see a picture of it.